Dubai History

November 21, 2007 at 3:15 am · Filed under Brand History

Dubai can either refer to one of the seven emirates that constitute the United Arab Emirates (UAE) in the eastern Arabian Peninsula, or that emirate’s main city, sometimes called “Dubai city” to distinguish it from the emirate. The modern emirate of Dubai was created with the formation of the United Arab Emirates in 1971. However, written accounts documenting the existence of the city have existed at least 150 years prior to the formation of the UAE. Dubai shares legal, political, military and economic functions with the other emirates within a federal framework, although each emirate has jurisdiction over some functions such as civic law enforcement and provision and upkeep of local facilities. Dubai has the largest population and is the second largest emirate by area, after Abu Dhabi. With Abu Dhabi, it is one of only two emirates to possess veto power over critical matters of national importance in the UAE. Dubai has been ruled by the Al Maktoum dynasty since 1833. The emirates’ current ruler, Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, is also the Prime Minister and Vice President of the UAE.

Dubai, together with Abu Dhabi and five other emirates, formed the United Arab Emirates after former protector Britain left the Persian Gulf in 1971. In 1973, Dubai joined the other emirates to adopt a uniform currency: the UAE dirham. In the 1970s, Dubai continued to grow from revenues generated from oil and trade even as the city saw an influx of Lebanese immigrants fleeing the civil war in Lebanon. The Jebel Ali Free Zone, comprising the Jebel Ali port (reputedly the world’s largest man made port) was established in 1979, which provided foreign companies unrestricted import of labour and export capital.

The Persian Gulf War of 1990 had a huge impact on the city. Economically, Dubai banks experienced a massive withdrawal of funds due to uncertain political conditions in the region. During the course of the 1990s, however, many foreign trading communities — first from Kuwait, during the Persian Gulf War, and later from Bahrain, during the Shia unrest, moved their businesses to Dubai. Dubai provided refueling bases to allied forces at the Jebel Ali free zone during the Persian Gulf war, and again, during the 2003 Invasion of Iraq. Large increases in oil prices after the Persian Gulf war encouraged Dubai to continue to focus on free trade and tourism. The success of the Jebel Ali free zone allowed the city to replicate its model to develop clusters of new free zones, including Dubai Internet City, Dubai Media City and Dubai Maritime City. The construction of Burj Al Arab, the world’s tallest freestanding hotel, as well as the creation of new residential developments, were used to market Dubai for purposes of tourism. Since 2002, the city has seen an increase in private real estate investment in recreating Dubai’s skyline with such projects as The Palm Islands and Burj Dubai. However, robust economic growth in recent years has been accompanied by rising inflation rates (at 6.2% as of 2006 when measured against Consumer Price Index) which is attributed in part due to the near doubling of commercial and residential rental costs, resulting in a substantial increase in the cost of living for residents.Revenues from petroleum and natural gas contribute less than 6% (2006) of Dubai’s US$ 37 billion economy (2005). A majority of the emirate’s revenues are from the Jebel Ali free zone authority (JAFZA) and, increasingly, from tourism and other service-oriented businesses. Dubai has attracted world-wide attention through innovative real estate projects and sports events. This increased attention, coinciding with its emergence as a world business hub, has also highlighted human rights issues concerning its largely foreign workforce.

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Bayerische Motoren Werke AG - BMW

September 26, 2007 at 4:30 pm · Filed under Brand History

Bayerische Motoren Werke AG (BMW), is an independent German company and manufacturer of automobiles and motorcycles. BMW is the parent company of the MINI and Rolls-Royce car brands. It is also one of the leading German car manufacturers.

History

BMW was officially founded as a public company in 1922, but traces its origins to the pioneering days of German aviation all the way back to 1913. Two of these pioneering men, Karl Rapp and Gustav Otto, are credited by BMW as the “founding fathers”. However, BMW owes its actual founding by three men- Josef Popp, Max Friz, and Camillo Castiglioni. These men brought BMW through many turbulent times in the company’s early life, as well as taking the company public in 1922 to form BMW AG. Beginning with aircraft engines, BMW AG produced a variety of products in its early years, eventually moving to motorcycle production in 1923 and automobiles in 1929.

Motorcycles

BMW started building motorcycle engines and then motorcycles after WWI. Their first notable motorcycle, the “R32″ came in 1923. These had a “boxer twin” engine, in which an air-cooled cylinder protrudes into the air-fllow from each side of the machine. Other than a few post-war singles (basically to the same pattern), all their motorcycles had used this distinctive, unusual (but well-regarded) layout until the early 1980s. Many BMWs are still produced to this pattern, which is designated the “R series”.

During WWII BMW produced the BMW R75 motorcycle with a sidecar attached. Unusually, the sidecar’s wheel was also driven. Combined with a lockable differential, this made the vehicle very capable off-road, an equivalent in many ways to the Jeep.

In 1983 came the “K Series” (affectionately known as “The Flying Brick”), still shaft drive but now water cooled and with either 3 or 4 cylinders mounted in a straight line from front to back. Shortly after, BMW also started making the chain-driven F and G series with single and parallel twin Rotax engines.

BMW motorcycles have a range of models that give an off-road, sporty or relaxed and comfortable ride.

In the early 1990s, BMW updated the airhead boxer engine which became known as the Oilhead. In 2002, the Oilhead engine had two spark plugs per cylinder. In 2004 it added a built-in balance shaft, an increased capacity to 1170 cc and enhanced performance to 100 hp (75 kW) for the R1200GS, compared to 85 hp (63 kW) of the previous R1150GS. More powerful variants of the oilhead and hexhead engines are available in the R1100S and R1200S, producing 98 hp (73 kW) and 122 hp (91 kW), respectively. also bow

In 2004, BMW introduced the new K1200S Sports Bike which marked a departure for BMW. It is both powerful (the engine is a 167 hp (125 kW) unit derived from the company’s work with the Williams F1 team) and significantly lighter than previous K models. It was BMW’s latest attempt to keep up with the pace of development of sports machines from the likes of Honda, Kawasaki, Yamaha, and Suzuki. Innovations include a unique electronically adjustable front and rear suspension, and a Hossack-type front fork BMW calls Duolever.

BMW was one of the earliest manufacturers to offer anti-lock brakes on production motorcycles starting in the late 1980s. The generation of anti-lock brakes available on the 2006 and later BMW motorcycles pave the way for the introduction of sophisticated electronic stability control, or anti-skid technology - a first for production motorcycles - later in the 2007 model year.

BMW has always been an innovator in motorcycle suspension design, taking up telescopic front suspension long before most other manufacturers. Then, when other makers caught up, they switched to Earles Forke, front suspension by swinging fork (1955 to 1969). Most modern BMWs are truly rear swingarm, single sided at the back (cf the regular swinging fork usually, and wrongly, called swinging arm).

Some BMWs started using yet another trademark front suspension design, the Telelever, in the early 1990s. Like the Earles Fork, the Telelever largely obviates dive under braking.

Motorcycle Clubs

Fanfare of the BMW motorcycle has invoked the interest in clubs, or groups of people who share the same passion for their Bavarian bikes. The two largest BMW motorcycle clubs in the world are headquartered in the United States. They are the BMW Riders Association (BMW RA) and the BMW Motorcycle Owners of America (BMW MOA).

Automobiles

The current BMW model lineup is split into what is referred to as “Series”, traditionally identified by a single digit - e.g. the 3 Series.

In 2004 BMW announced plans to make odd-numbered series saloon/sedan and estate/wagon models (BMW calls its estates/wagons Touring models), while even-numbered series will be two-door coupés and cabriolets. This convention started informally in 1976 with the introduction of the 6 Series and later continued in 1989 with the 8 Series, but died off when the latter was discontinued in 1999. This practice was revived as the Z4 replaced the aging Z3 roadster in 2003 and continues as the new 6 Series augments the existing BMW 5 Series.

1 Series

The 1 Series is a brand entry-level vehicle which was launched in Fall 2004 and a 3-Door that was launched in July 2007 on the BMW International website. Because it is the only rear wheel drive vehicle in its class, it is considered the heir apparent to the original 2002 sport sedan from the 1960s. A Coupé has been announced for late 2007, and there are concepts for a convertible. U.S. introduction for the 1 series is expected in MY 2008 as a coupé and convertible, in the 128i and the 135i. The 135i is slated to receive the 300 horsepower (220 kW) twin turbo 6 cylinder engine from the 3 series. The 1 series pricing fits neatly between MINI and the current E90 3-series.

3 Series

The BMW 3 Series is a compact executive car manufactured since MY 1975. The E90 is the 5th generation 3 series. Available from MY 2005 to present, it is offered as the sport sedan(E90), sport wagon(E91), sport coupe(E92), and sport coupe convertible(E93). The E90 series is completely re-engineered from the E46, including changes to motor choices, transmission, the passenger compartment comfort, suspension technology, as well as a host of High-Tech features and options.

The 3 series is not only one of BMW’s most important models, it also accounts for a majority of worldwide sales.

5 Series

A mid-size luxury car / executive car. For MY 2008, BMW has revised the 5 series with a slightly redesigned interior, subtle exterior details, and new motor options. The motors offered are BMW’s N52 and N54 inline 6-cylinder motors, as well as diesel and V8 options.

The BMW 5 series has been one of BMW’s “experimenal” cars, in which they can explore newer ideas. They have inserted new technologies and new ideas into this model that may have seemed radical for its time. One such example of this “testing” approach is the new headlight design. These types of changes to the 5 Series have allowed BMW to assess the reaction of consumers to their new designs before expanding the changes to other model series. Consequently, it has at times led people to question BMW’s approach to design.

• The M5 is the motorsport division’s version of the 5 Series. The new M5 (built on the E60 5 series chassis) is powered by a F1-inspired V10 engine, producing 507 hp (378 kW) and is mated with a 7-speed Sequential Manual Gearbox (SMG) transmission, which is capable of a delimited top speed of about 330 km/h (production variants are restricted to 250 km/h, or 155 mph). BMW has also recently added a 6-speed manual transmission for newer 2007 models. The colour palette differs from its more modest 5 Series siblings.

6 Series

The 6 Series is BMW’s grand touring luxury sport coupé. Currently available as the 650i in coupé and coupé convertible, the 6 series returned in 2004, after a 15 year absence from BMW’s model lineup.

Although many spy photos were seen with the 6-Series having a half-life update, like the 5-Series, BMW released the updated 6-Series in July 2007. It is unknown when the M6 coupe & cabriolet update versions will be released, however both are expected soon.

• M6: A high performance version of the 6 Series. Developed by BMW’s M Division, it is powered by the same 5.0 L V10 507 hp (378 kW) engine seen in the BMW M5. It is currently available in Europe, North America and Australia.

7 Series

BMW’s full-size flagship executive sedan. Typically, BMW introduces much of their innovations first in the vaunted 7 series. It has been deemed a “sports car at the helm and a limousine in the rear”. Numerous landmark and breakthrough technologies for the entire automotive industry debut on the 7 series. For example, the groundbreaking and controversial iDrive, or the world’s first Hydrogen powered production vehicle, have all debuted in the 7 series. The 7-Series Hydrogen, the world’s first luxury performance sedan with hydrogen drive, it runs on the most plentiful element in the world and emits virtually nothing but water vapor. And because the infrastructure for refueling a hydrogen internal combustion engine is not yet complete, the V12 engine also runs on gasoline, enabled via a push button system. Numerous engines power the 7 series worldwide. BMW offers diesel, V8 and V12 motors, as well as the Alpina tuned supercharged V8. Additionally, the 760Li is also made in a bulletproof version.^{[citation needed]}

X3

BMW’s second SUV debuted in 2004 (called SAV or Sports Activity Vehicle by BMW) and is based on the E46 3 Series layout within, but without, it is quite unique. For 2007, the X3 is powered by the N52 inline 6 cylinder engine that debuted with the 2006 E90 3 Series. The X3 is a more functionally oriented vehicle that American buyers seem to prefer over a wagon; it is BMW’s answer to the growing crossover segment of the market. It has performed quite well in sales, but in 2007 a face lift was given to the X3, including an X-drive update, suspension adjustments, an engine upgrade, and aesthetics inside and out.

Marketed in Europe as an off-roader, it benefits from an advanced all-wheel drive system. This, combined with its standard “Enhanced DSC” stability control, make the X3 a capable vehicle on and off road.

X5

The BMW X5 (E53) is a mid-size luxury SUV (SAV) sold by BMW since 2000. It features all-wheel drive and a line of straight-6 and V8 engines. For non-US models there is a 3.0 L diesel engine.

The BMW E70 automobile platform replaced the BMW E53 in November 2006. The E70-based X5 SUV features many new technological advancements including BMW’s iDrive system as standard equipment and, for the first time in a BMW, an optional third row seat which has increased the seating capacity in the new X5 to 7 passengers.

The E53 model was rated the by IIHS in 2002 to be the safest vehicle that organization had ever tested.^{[citation needed]} Since then, BMW has applied their craft to the current generation E70 to incorporate innovative “firsts” for the SUV/SAV industry, such as Run Flat Tires, complimentary BMW Assist, and a unique rear framing section to protect 3rd row occupants from injury due to an impact.

Z4

A 2-seater roadster and coupé which succeeded the Z3. For 2006 the Z4 Roadster is available as a 3.0i (3.0 L I6 with 215 hp), a 3.0si available with the new generation 3.0 L I6 with 255 hp (190 kW), a 2.5si with a 2.5 I6 with 218 bhp (163 kW) or a 2.0i with a 150 bhp (112 kW) 2.0 L I4. The Z4 Coupé is available only in the high-performance 3.0si trim powered by the 3.0 L 255 hp (190 kW) I6.

• Z4 M The new Z4 M roadster has been released as a Z4 with an E46 M3 motor (3.2 L, 343 hp) and also features the M braking, suspension, and M characteristics. There is also an M coupe model available.

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Lacoste History

September 8, 2007 at 2:45 am · Filed under Brand History

Lacoste apparel company founded in 1933 that sells high-end clothing, footwear, perfume, leather goods, watches, eyewear, and most famously, tennis shirts. The company can be recognized by its green crocodile logo. Lacoste has the reputation of being culturally preppy, especially in the United States. The company is currently owned at 65% by the Lacoste family and at 35% by Devanlay. Procter and Gamble is licence-holder for the fragrance line. They manufacture some of the most amazing fragrances in the world.

Lacoste is headquartered in . Lacoste currently has its production capital in Troyes, France, though they delegate production of international clothing to numerous factories around the world, including those found in Peru and Morocco and Italy. After a 2 year search in the Central American region, Lacoste established production for its US customers in the Miramar Free Trade Zone in El Salvador. El Salvador operations will be managed by a new the local subsidiary Textil El Salvador (TRANS).
was a famous French tennis player who achieved fame in two areas: tennis and fashion. While winning the 1927 U.S. Open championship, Rene Lacoste of France wore something that he himself had created: a white, short-sleeve shirt made exclusively of a light knitted fabric called ‘jersey petit piqué’ that served to wick away moisture due to heat, the very first version of performance clothing in sports. The shirt was a radical departure from tennis fashion of the day, which called for stiff, woven, long-sleeve oxfords. In 1923 during the Davis Cup, the American press nicknamed Lacoste “the Alligator” because of a bet made about an alligator-skin suitcase. With no cognate in his native tongue, the nickname was changed to le crocodile in French. The nickname stuck due to his tenacious behavior on the courts, never giving up his prey. Lacoste’s friend, Robert Georges, drew him a crocodile which Lacoste then embroidered on the blazer he wore on the courts.

After he retired from tennis, Lacoste founded La Chemise Lacoste in 1933 with André Gillier, the owner and President of the largest French knitwear manufacturing firm at the time. They began to produce the revolutionary tennis shirt Lacoste had designed and worn on the tennis courts with the crocodile logo embroidered on the chest, serving as the first example of a brand name appearing on the outside of an article of clothing.[1] In addition to tennis shirts, Lacoste produced shirts for golf and sailing. In 1951, the company began to expand as it branched from “tennis white” and introduced color shirts. In 1952 the shirts were exported to the United States and advertised as “the status symbol of the competent sportsman”, influencing the clothing choices of the upper-class.

In 1963, Bernard Lacoste took over the management of the company from his father René. Significant company growth was seen under Bernard’s management. When he became president, around three hundred thousand Lacoste products were sold annually. The Lacoste brand reached its height of popularity in the US during the 1970s when the tennis shirt became an essential of the preppy wardrobe, even getting mentioned in Lisa Birnbach’s Official Preppy Handbook of 1980. The company also began to introduce other products into their line including shorts, perfume, optical and sunglasses, tennis shoes, deck shoes, walking shoes, watches, and various leather goods. To many people’s surprise, Lacoste does indeed make a size 2, which is a XXS in American sizes.

In the United States in the 1970s and 1980s, Izod and Lacoste were often used interchangeably because starting in the 1950s, Izod produced clothing known as Izod Lacoste under license for sale in the U.S. This partnership ended in 1993, when Lacoste regained exclusive U.S. rights to distribute shirts under its own brand. It was also in the 80’s when Le Tigre Clothing came around. It was said to be the American alternative to the French brand.

More recently, Lacoste’s popularity has surged due to French designer Christophe Lemaire’s work to create a more modern, upscale look. In 2005, almost fifty million Lacoste products sold in over one hundred and ten countries. Its visibility has increased due to the contracts between Lacoste and several young tennis players, including American tennis star Andy Roddick and French rising young prospect Richard Gasquet. Lacoste has also begun to increase its presence in the golf world, where noted 2 time Master champion, José María Olazábal and Scottish golfer Colin Montgomerie have been seen sporting Lacoste shirts in tournaments.

Bernard Lacoste became seriously ill in early 2005, which led him to transfer the presidency of Lacoste to his younger brother and closest collaborator for many years, Michel Lacoste. Bernard died in Paris on March 21, 2006.

As of 2006, Lacoste licenses its trademark to various companies. For example, Devanlay owns the exclusive worldwide clothing license, Pentland Brands has the exclusive worldwide license to produce Lacoste footwear, and Samsonite holds the worldwide license to produce Lacoste bags and small leather goods.
In June 2007, Lacoste introduced their very first e-commerce site  for the US market.

As of late, Lacoste has been worn by many hip hop artists, such as Kanye West and most recently rapper Kia Shine.
In the early fifties Rene Lacoste teamed up with David Crystal, who at the time owned Izod, to produce Izod Lacoste clothing. In the 1970s and 1980s it was extremely popular with teenagers who called the shirts simply Izod. The partnership ended in 1993 over quality control problems on Izod’s part. The Lacoste name was revived in 1995 less Izod.

However, starting in 2000, with the hiring of a new fashion designer, Christopher Lemaire, Lacoste began to take over control of its brand name and logo, reining in their branding arrangements. Now, Lacoste has once again returned to the elite status it held before a brand management crisis in the ’70s and ’80s.
Lacoste operate a large chain of Lacoste boutiques worldwide; located as concessions in leading department stores but also as independent Lacoste stores. In the UK Lacoste is available from many leading high-end shops including KJ Beckett and John Lewis Partnership. Likewise in the USA the Lacoste brand can be found in stores such as Nordstrom and other high-end independent retailers.

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Donna Karan

August 16, 2007 at 10:58 am · Filed under Brand History

 

Donna Karan fashion designer and the creator of the DKNY (Donna Karan New York) clothing label. She was born Donna Ivy Faske on October 9, 1948 in Forest Hills, New York. She grew up in Hewlett, Long Island with her step-father who was a tailor and her mother who was a model. She graduated from Hewlett High School in 1966 and then went on to Parson’s School of Design for two years. She left to work for Anne Klein. Eventually she became head of the Anne Klein design-team and remained in this position until 1989. At that time, she launched the Essentials line. She married Mark Karan in the early 1970s. The day she gave birth to their daughter Gabriel in 1974, it was announced that Karan’s employer, Anne Klein, had died. Karan’s daughter Gabby is married to Gian Paolo De Felice, an Alitalia airline pilot. They have one daughter, Stefania. She has been reported as being involved in the Kabbalah Centre.

Donna Karan International

Karan, nicknamed The Queen Of Seventh Avenue, began working for Liz Claiborne at a very young age. In the 1970s, she then got a job through her mother as an intern with Anne Klein, where she was eventually promoted to associate designer in 1971. When Anne Klein herself died in 1974, Takihyo Corporation of Japan became the new owner and Karan, together with her former classmate and friend Louis Dell’Ollio, became head designer of the house. In 1984 Donna Karan left Anne Klein and, together with her husband Mark Karan and Takihyo Corporation she started her own business “to design modern clothes for modern people”. She showed her first Donna Karan women’s collection in 1985.

What made her initially famous in the industry was her line of elastic bodysuits. She also became known for her very successful Essentials line, initially offering seven easy pieces which could all be mixed and matched, and created a fully integrated wardrobe. At a time when more and more women in America entered the business world and were looking for sophisticated and elegant, yet simple and functional clothing, preferably in black, white or grey, the company experienced tremendous success with its ‘power dressing’ outfits and was loved by the critics in the 1980s. Ms. Karan always insisted that she would only design clothes, like jersey dresses and opaque Lycra tights, that she would also wear herself. Donna Karan was so New York that the New York Times described her as “Ed Koch in a stretchy black dress” in the early nineties, referring to the then mayor of New York City.

In 1988 Karan extended her women’s Signature Collection by a less expensive line, called DKNY, for younger women. The line was such a hit that Karan can be regarded as the first designer to successfully establish a bridge collection. Two years later she created DKNY Jeans and DKNY for men was launched in 1992, one year after the Signature collection line for men had been presented. The portfolio was later complemented by a kid’s collection, beauty products, accessories and furniture. Sales rose up to 510.1 million in 1995 from $96.6 in 1991. More than half of the sales are attributed to the DKNY lines, couture contributes 15% and about 30% of the sales are generated by men’s clothing, accessories, cosmetics and other products. Almost a third of the sales are made in exports.

The European DKNY business was damaged in the early 1990s by poor quality and flawed logistics which resulted in the creation of a European supply center in Amsterdam, Netherlands. The company later announced to show their collection at the Milan fashion week in 1996 but later backed out again.

Donna Karan, Inc. and LVMH

In mid-1997 Donna Karan quit as CEO of the company but has officially remained chairwoman and designer in charge of the Donna Karan line. Actually, the line these days is designed by Peter Speliopoulos, a talented former Cerruti designer, with Karan contributing little subtleties or even entire new creations. The DKNY line is entirely designed by Jane Chung, a Karan employee since the days at Anne Klein. Most merchandise is licensed. Liz Claiborne markets the DKNY Jeans and Active brands lines, Estée Lauder is in charge for the cosmetics business. In 1997, Donna Karan signed licensing deals with Wacoal America for men’s and women’s DKNY intimate apparel, Esprit for DKNY children’s apparel, Phillips Van Heusen for DKNY men’s dress shirts, Mallory & Church for DKNY men’s ties and hosiery, Peerless Clothing for DKNY suits and sport coats, and Max Leather for belts and small leather goods.

In 1998, things had turned for DKNY: a men’s dress shirt sells now for up to $125 while a Calvin Klein sportswear dress shirt is almost half. The couture Donna Karan Signature line for men, which was comparable to the men’s line of Calvin Klein Collection, has been pulled from the market.

As of October 2006, Mark Weber is CEO of Donna Karan International.

Donna Karan stores

The first DKNY flagship store opened in 1999 at Madison Avenue and 60th in New York. According to the company’s web site there are Donna Karan stores in New York, Manhasset, Boston, Costa Mesa, London, Singapore, Tokyo, Fukuoka, Riyadh, Jeddah and Dubai. The Donna Karan store in Berlin was closed in December 2001. The DKNY label has its own stores, located predominantly in retail shopping malls. Apart from DKNY stores in New York, Costa Mesa, Short Hills, Boston, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, and Denver, there are international outlets in London, Antwerp, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Dubai, Tel Aviv and Montreal as well as at more unusual locations such as Cancún, Barcelona, Ankara, Manchester, Kuala Lumpur, Manila and Beirut, Athens among others. In addition, there are so-called Donna Karan Company stores, predominantly located within outlet malls, which sell the merchandise at reduced prices.

Since 2005, Donna Karan has offered online shopping of its DKNY lines at the label’s web site. Products range from womenswear, accessories, shoes, baby clothing, the PURE collection to menswear. The latter, however, is not being offered anymore for the spring 2007 season.

The company maintains retail and office space at 550 Seventh Avenue (headquarters) and 240 W. 40th St. in New York City.

Donna Karan fragrances

• Donna Karan (women, 1992; in limited distribution)
• Cashmere Mist (women, 1994)
• DK Men Fuel (men, 1994; discontinued)
• DK Men Unleaded (men, 1995; discontinued)
• Chaos (women, 1996; discontinued)
• DKNY Women (women, 1999; no longer sold in North America, but still sold in Europe and Asia)
• DKNY Men (men, 2000; no longer sold in North America, but still sold in Europe and Asia)
• Black Cashmere (women, 2002; currently in limited distribution)
• DKNY Energy Women (women, 2002; sold outside North America only)
• DKNY Energy Men (men, (2002; sold outside North America only)
• Pure Cashmere (women, 2004; limited edition)
• DKNY Be Delicious Women (women, 2004)
• DKNY Be Delicious Men (men, 2004)
• DKNY Red Delicious Women (women, 2006; limited edition)
• DKNY Red Delicious Men (men, 2006; limited edition)
• Donna Karan Gold (women, 2006)

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TAG Heuer

August 16, 2007 at 10:56 am · Filed under Brand History

TAG Heuer (pronounced: täg-hoi-er) is a Swiss watchmaker known for its mid - high range sports watches and chronographs. It is a division of leading luxury goods company LVMH. The company motto is “Swiss Avant-Garde Since 1860″.

TAG Heuer focuses primarily on chronographs with some less expensive models in each line with non-chronograph features. The lines include Monaco, Carrera, Link, Aquaracer, Kirium and others. Automatic (self-winding) movements and water resistance are the norm, as well as sapphire crystals and sometimes also windows on the back of the watch to view the movement.

At the end of 2003, TAG Heuer ended its association with F1 as the official timekeeper, allowing the way the graphics are displayed to undergo a facelift in 2004 where Siemens replaced TAG as the timekeeper. It signalled the end of the large black overlays which were an icon during the late 90s and early 2000s.

Some of the more recently announced models include the Monaco V4 (the movement of which is driven by belts rather than gears); the Carrera Calibre 360 (the first mechanical wrist chronograph to measure and display time to 1/100th of a second); and the Monaco 69 (featuring both a digital chronograph accurate to 1/1000th of a second and a traditional mechanical movement, with a hinged mechanism allowing wearers to flip the watch between its two separate dials).

History

1800s

Edouard Heuer founded a watchmaking company in 1860.

Some early highlights of the company’s early history include the following: In 1869, Edouard Heuer patented the first crown-winding mechanism for pocket watches. In 1889, during the Universal Exhibition in Paris, the Heuer company won a silver medal for its collection of pocket chronographs. In 1911, the company received a patent for the “Time of Trip”, the first dashboard chronograph.

Early 1900s

Ed. Heuer introduced its first wrist chronograph in 1914. The crown was at the twelve o’clock position, as these first wrist chronographs were adapted from pocket chronographs. In 1916, Heuer introduced the “Micrograph”, the first stopwatch accurate to 1/100th of a second. In 1933, Heuer introduced the “Autavia”, a dashboard timer used for Automobiles and Aviation (and thus the name “Autavia”). The companion “Hervue” was a clock that had an 8-day movement (meaning that it could run for eight days without being wound).

Mid 1900s

In the early 1950s, Heuer produced watches for the American retailer, Abercrombie & Fitch. The “Seafarer” and “Auto-Graph” were unique chronographs produced by Heuer to be sold by Abercrombie & Fitch. The “Seafarers” had special dials — with blue, green and yellow patterns — that showed the high-tide and the low-tide. This dial could also be used to track the phases of the moon. Heuer introduced its own version of this chronograph in the late 1960s, known as the “Mareographe”. The “Auto-Graph” was produced in 1953 and 1954, and was designed to compute the speed of an automobile over a measured mile.

In 1958, Heuer introduced a new line of timepieces, designed to be mounted on the dashboard of an automobile — or an airplane or boat. Leading models of these dashboard timers included the Master Time (8-day clock), the Monte Carlo (12-hour stopwatch), the Super Autavia (full chronograph), Sebring (60-minute, split second timer) and Auto-Rallye (60-minute stopwatch). Heuer continued to manufacture this line of timepieces, into the 1980s.

During the period from the 1950s through the 1970s, Heuers were popular watches among automobile racers, both professionals and amateurs. The Autavia chronograph was introduced in 1962 and featured a rotating bezel, marked in either hours, minutes or with a tachymeter scale. The Autavia name had previously been used on Heuer’s dashboard timers (described above). The Carrera chronograph, designed by Jack Heuer, was introduced in 1963, and became a design icon, known for its clean lines. Most of Heuer chronographs from this period used movements manufactured by Valjoux, including the legendary Valjoux 72 movement (for a 12-hour chronograph).

Heuer acquired the “Leonidas” brand in the early 1960s, with the combined company marketing watches under the “Heuer-Leonidas” name. One of the designs that Heuer acquired from Leonidas was the “Bundeswehr” chronograph, used by the German air force. These “BWs” feature a “fly-back” mechanism, so that when the chronograph is reset to zero, it immediately begins running again, to time the next segment or event.

In 1969, Heuer was part of a partnership (with Breitling and Hamilton), that introduced the first automatic chronographs. Heuer’s first automatic chronographs were the Autavia, Carrera and Monaco. These chronographs were powered by the Cal 11 and Cal 12 movements (12-hour chronograph); Cal 14 movement (12-hour chronograph and additional hand for GMT / second time-zone); and the Cal 15 movement (30-minute chronograph). An unusual feature of these chronographs was that the winding crown was on the left, with the pushers for the chronograph on the right. The earliest of Heuer’s Cal 11 chronographs (from 1969) used the Chrono-Matic name; soon after that time, Heuer discontinued its use of that reference.

Late 1900s

In the early 1980s, Heuer introduced a series of chronographs powered by the Lemania 5100 movement. These chronographs have the minute hand for the chronograph on the center pinion (rather than on a smaller register), greatly improving legibility. This series of chronographs was considered to be very rugged and durable.

TAG Heuer was formed in 1985 when TAG (Techniques d’Avant Garde), manufacturers of high-tech items such as ceramic turbochargers for Formula 1 cars, acquired Heuer. Together they modernized the product line and became one of the biggest names in Swiss watches.

On September 13, 1999 TAG Heuer accepted a bid from LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton S.A. of 1.15 billion francs ($739 million) contingent upon a transfer of 50.1% of stocks.

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Valentino fashion designer

July 12, 2007 at 10:20 pm · Filed under Brand History

Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani, a.k.a. Valentino (11 May 1932, Voghera, Lombardy, Italy) is a fashion designer. His fashion house is among the world’s most famous haute couture and ready-to-wear fashion empires.
The Paris years
Garavani became interested in fashion while in middle school in his native Voghera, Lombardy Italy, when he apprenticed under his uncle Rosa and a local designer Ernestina Salvadeo, an aunt of noted artist Aldo Giorgini).

At 17 Valentino moved to Paris to pursue this interest with the help of by his mother Teresa de Biaggi and his father Mauro Garavani. There he studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts and at the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne.

His first Paris choice was Jacques Fath, then Balenciaga. He then found apprentice jobs with Jean Desses where he used to help style icon countess Jacqueline de Ribes sketch her dress ideas. He then joined Guy Laroche for 2 years. At Desses, Valentino sketched furiously, between helping with window dressing and greeting clients for the daily 2:30 p.m. private showings. Most of his early sketches were lost. At a Rome exhibition in 1991 a smattering went on display and current clients at that time such as Marie Hélène de Rothschild and Elizabeth Taylor marveled that the DNA of Valentino’s style was already apparent in the layers of white pleats and animal prints.

After five years, Valentino left Jean Desses under a cloud over an incident about prolonging a vacation in St. Tropez that still makes him wriggle uncomfortably today. Rescued by his friend Guy Laroche, he joined his “tiny, tiny” fashion house. Anyway just when he had been offered the French equivalent of a green card and after discussions with his parents, he decided to return to Italy and set up in Rome in 1959.

Rome: la dolce vita and his encounter with Giancarlo Giammetti

In 1959 Valentino thus moved back to Italy with his lover, french socialite Gerald Nanty and opened a fashion house in Rome on the posh Via Condotti with the backing of his father and an associate of his. More than an atelier, the premises resembled a real “maison de couture”, being it very much on the line of what Valentino had seen in Paris: everything was very grand and models flew in from Paris for his first show.

On 31 July 1960 Valentino met at the Café de Paris on the Via Veneto in Rome Giancarlo Giammetti. One of three children, Giammetti was in his second year of architecture school, living at home with his parents in the haut bourgeois Parioli section of Northern Rome. His father owned an electronics store near the Via Veneto. That day Giammetti gave Valentino a lift home in his little Fiat and a friendship as well as a long-lasting partnership started. The day after Giammetti was to leave for Capri for vacation and by coincidence Valentino was also going to there so they met again in the island 10 days later. Giammetti would shortly after abandon the University for good to become Valentino’s business partner.

Giammetti’s entrepreneurial genius will prove fundamental to the worldwide expansion and success of the House. Thanks to Giammetti Valentino was able to focus on the creative aspect of design leaving all business intricacies to Giammeti. When Giammetti arrived, the business situation of Valentino’s atelier was not brilliant: in one year he had spent so much money that his father’s associate pulled out of the business so that Valentino had to fight against bankruptcy. Valentino already had a passion for luxury and would thus spend too much money on expensive fabrics never thinking about the financial aspects of his fashion business.

Valentino and Giametti were told to start a new company and so they did. Under Giammetti’s wing Valentino business got under control and things were ready for international success.

Breakthrough in Florence

Valentino’s international debut took place in 1962 in Florence, the Italian fashion capital of the time. His first show at the Pitti Palace was welcomed as a true revelation and the young couturier was submerged by orders from foreign buyers and enthusiastic comments on the press.

After the breakthrough show in Florence, Valentino started to dress the ladies of the international best-dressed crowd such as his acquaintance from the Paris years Countess Jacqueline de Ribes and New York socialites Babe Paley and Jayne Wrightsman.

In 1966, confident of his client base, he moved his shows from Florence to Rome and there, two years later, he had one of his greatest triumphs, an all-white collection, which became famous for the “V” logo he designed.

In 1964 Jacqueline Kennedy bought six of his couture dresses, all in black and white, to wear during her year of mourning after J.F.K.’s death. Jackie had seen countess Gloria Schiff, twin sister of the Rome-based fashion editor of American Vogue and Valentino’s friend Consuelo Crespi, wearing an ensemble in two pieces in black organza at a party. Jackie called Gloria Schiff to know the name of the designer and found out it was some Valentino. In September 1964, Valentino had a show at the Waldorf-Astoria for a benefit. Since Jackie wanted to see the clothes he sent his saleslady, along with a model, to Jackie’s apartment on Fifth Avenue. Mrs. Kennedy ordered six outfits and from then on she became a devout client and a friend. Valentino later on would also design the white dress that Jackie wore to her wedding with Greek tycoon Aristotle Onassis.

Throughout the 1970s Valentino spent considerable time in New York City where his presence was embraced by social personalities such as Vogue’s editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland and art identities such as Andy Warhol.

Valentino and Giammetti were together for 12 years. Neither ever discussed their relationship with anyone outside their closest circle of friends-not even with their mothers. Valentino’s mother, Teresa, moved from Voghera to Rome to help with the business. Eventually both his parents moved to Rome and lived with Valentino. Teresa Garavani and Lina Giammetti lived with their sons until the women died, Teresa in 1977 and Lina in 1996.

The Accademia Valentino

1989 marked the opening of the Accademia Valentino, designed by Architect Tommaso Ziffer, a cultural space located near his atelier in Rome, for the presentation of art exhbitions. The next year, encouraged by their friend Elizabeth Taylor, Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti created L.I.F.E., an association for the support of AIDS-related patients, which benefits from the activities of the Accademia Valentino.

From HDP group to Marzotto group

In 1998 Valentino and his partner Giancarlo Giammetti sold the company for approximately $300 million to HdP, an Italian conglomerate controlled, in part, by the late Gianni Agnelli, the head of Fiat. In 2002, Valentino S.p.A., with revenues of more than $180 million, was sold by HdP to Marzotto Apparel, a Milan-based textile giant, for $210 million. It was rumored that HDP was displeased with Valentino’s and Giammetti’s personal expenses, a claim Giammetti has bristled at: businessmen have a perspective of fashion which is completely old-fashioned, they believe fashion is a little show with models-beautiful girls they would like to know-who walk on the runway. They don’t know how much work is behind it, and how important the image of the founder and the designer is for the company. You cannot talk about the dresses of Valentino without thinking about him, and when you think about him, you think about the glamorous life he leads, and all that adds to the product(Vanity Fair, August 2004).

Glamour for glamour

It is difficult to deny that Valentino in his long career has created some of the most sophisticated dresses to be seen and worn, particularly for the evening, the time of the day in which his flamboyant and opulent style has expressed itself at the best, however, when it comes to considering the general output of his work, and its relevance in the history of fashion, things change. Compared to the influence and innovations of such great masters as Christian Dior, Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli and ultimately Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino’s style can be seen as much more conservative and fixed. His concept of elegance and beauty is basically an exercise in glamour for the sake of glamour itself. Inventive as it may be it lacks the modernity, the conceptual depth and the daring spirit that has marked the work of the above mentioned designers, particulary that of the most influent of his contemporaries (and in general the most influent post war designer), Saint Laurent. When one looks retrospectively to his collections,(and the recent celebration in Rome is an occasion to do this) it is possible to see clearly that he has always designed thinking only and exclusively for women of the so called jet set, the vacuous and glittering world of the great socialites, towards which he always had a particular craving. The Italian designer has never translated the Zeitgeist into his fashion, remaining constantly hooked to the more abstract imperative of a glamourized concept of femminility. In this sense, there are no sociological traces to be found in his creations, as there are in the collections of the four French masters or, more recently, in those of Jean Paul Gaultier and Gianni Versace, two of the most acute interpreters of fashion as a mirror reflecting social and cultural changes. Guided by his personal snobbery, all of Valentino’s talent has been put at the service of a romanticised and illusory notion of what the upper crust of society is, and consequently, of how a women belonging to it must dress and behave. This woman is more the fabrication of Hollywood in the 30ies-40ies (and all of his work, this is it’s main limit, is foundamentally tied to the period of the mythical stars such as Greta Garbo, Gloria Swanson, Merle Oberon and Joan Crawford), than anything else. At 75 years of age, Valentino cannot but go on doing what he has already done, even if most of his creations (but this issue concerns haute couture as a whole) seems completely anachronistic and absurdly elaborate for today standards of life, even for the very rich for whom they are produced.

Legion d’Honneur

On Thursday, 6 July 2006 President Chirac of France awarded Valentino with final jewel in the crown of his achievements: Chevalier de la Legion d’Honneur from the country where he arrived as a 17-year-old Italian boy - and fell in love with haute couture. “I am very honored,” said Valentino, who has gleaned awards from across the world from his native Italy to America. “French people are charming, adorable but not extremely generous with foreigners, but they believe in what they do. I feel proud in exchange because what I did in restoration is something I did for La France.” (Herald Tribune) Valentino was referring to restoring Wideville, his Louis XIII chateau outside Paris read below).
Patrons of the art
Both Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti are renowned for their extensive collection of art spread among their homes around the world including Picasso, Cy Twombly, Balthus, Damien Hirst.

High Living

Valentino and Giametti’s lifestyle has always been flamboyant to the extreme. John Fairchild, editor-at-large at Women’s Wear Daily and W, told Vanity Fair (August 2004): Valentino and Giancarlo are the kings of high living. Every other designer looks and says, ‘How do they live the way they do?’ I don’t think they made the money that Valentino and Giancarlo did, because Giancarlo knows how to make money. If they did, they didn’t spend the money like Valentino. No other designer ever did. When the terrorism first started in Rome - the period when the Red Brigades were kidnapping people - Valentino was riding around in a bulletproof Mercedes. And do you know what color the Mercedes was? Red. My God, I thought, you must want to get blown up.

Movie:The Devil Wears Prada

In 2006 Valentino did a cameo role as himself in the hit movie The Devil Wears Prada. One of the DVD’s featurettes is called “Getting Valentino” and shows an interview of the designer and Valentino backstage with the movie’s actresses, Meryl Streep and Anne Hathaway , and his associate Giancarlo Giammetti and his PR Carlos de Souza and Charlene Shorto de Ganay.
Valentino Museum
During the festivities for the 45th year of Valentino’s career the Mayor of Rome Walter Veltroni accounced that the site of the Valentino museum will a building in via San Teodoro in Rome between the Palatine hill and the Bocca della Verità (mouth of truth).
45 years of Valentino: 6 - 8 July 2007, Rome
In order to celebrate the 45th anniversary of Valentino’s career a fashion extravaganza took place in Rome between 6th and 8th July 2007. Festivities started on Thursday 5th July with a dinner for Valentino’s assistants and employees at Ristorante Gusto and ended on Sunday 8th July with the launch of a perfume and a brunch at the French Academy of Villa Medici.

The main five exclusive golden invitation cards have been sent from the Valentino headquarters for the main weekend’s events:

• 6 july 2007 at 7:30 pm: inauguration of the exhibit “Valentino in Rome, 45 years of style” designed by Patrick Kinmonth and Antonio Monfreda at the ancient sacrificial altar Ara Pacis showcasing Valentino’s most important creations from the past 45 years. Valentino has gone through his archives and his clients’ closets to narrow down his choices to about 300.
• 6 july 2007 post-exhibit gala dinner at the Temple of Venus in the Imperial Forum. Dating back to 135 A.C. and dedicated to Emperor Hadrian the forum had never been opened to any event. Oscar-winning designer Dante Ferretti (The Aviator, Gangs of New York, The Age of Innocence) Dante Ferretti re-created the monument’s long-lost columns in fiber glass, a special procedure called anastilosys, and choreographed a spectacular performance by high-wire ballerinas (costumed in exaggerated versions of the designer’s ball gowns or signature lipstick-red evening dresses), who moved with poetic grace to Maria Callas’s haunting arias, with the Coliseum, bathed in red and mauve light, as a breathtaking backdrop. The plexigas structure remained for the summer for tourists to enjoy. Culture Minister Francesco Rutelli also revealed that Valentino contributed to the restoration of the Temple with a donation of 200,000 euros.
• 7th july at 5.00 pm: fashion show for 1000 people. For the first time after 16 years Valentino’s Haute Couture fashion show will not take place in Paris during the HC fashion week but in Rome. Socialite and longtime Valentino fan Marina Palma took over the fashionable Bolognese restaurant for a tribute lunch before the international guest list set off for the designer’s bravura couture runway show. The fashion setting was two halls called Sala Incisa and Sala Baglivi of the restructured 16th century Santo Spirito in Saxia complex, next to Castel Sant’Angelo and the Vatican. Valentino showed about 61 couture dresses, a record number considering a HC show never shows more than 40 gowns. The collection referenced many of the leitmotifs revealed in the retrospective at Ara Pacis and was a tour de force of the flawless and unmatchable techniques that Valentino’s brilliant workrooms. The music segued from Mahler’s Fifth to Maria Callas’s hauntingly beautiful rendition of Puccini’s ‘O Mio Babbino Caro’ as Valentino took his bow. An impressive roster of fellow designers who had gathered to pay homage—Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani Donatella Versace, Tom Ford, Diane von Furstenberg, Carolina Herrera, Zac Posen, Manolo Blahnik, and Philip Treacy among them—led the standing ovation, which drew tears from the habitually unflappable designer, who embraced Giancarlo Giammetti on the runway.’It was the most fantastic collection,’ said Princess Firyal of Jordan backstage. ‘I’m about to cry, too.

• the post-show gala dinner and ball took place in the Parco dei Daini at the Villa Borghese. There Dante Ferretti had created a spectacular Brighton Pavilion-inspired tent, with palm-tree columns and red, black, and mirrored walls, in the gardens. Guests included Princess Caroline of Monaco, Anna Wintour,Farah Diba, Karl Lagerfeld, Uma Thurman, Princesses Marie-Chantal of the Hellenes and Rosario of Bulgaria, as well as Mayor Walter Veltroni. Other movie stars flocked too: Eva Mendes in a black version of the designer’s iconic 1965 red crepe sheath (the original was encased in a giant red Perspex box at the entrance to his retrospective), Sarah Jessica Parker in black draperies, Sienna Miller, in a ostrich-feather crinoline gown, Jennifer Hudson in a gown with a train. Socialites included Daphne Guinness in a black-and-white lace flamenco dress with silver platforms and ostrich-feather eyelashes and Lita Livanos, Sheetal Mafatlal, and Rena Sindi, Nada Kirdar, Lynn Wyatt (in the red taffeta ruffles of a dress Valentino made for her 25 years ago that she found in her attic), Allison Sarofim in a coral-beaded 1960s Valentino.Singer Annie Lennox held a surprise concert.
• Sunday, July 8: Valentino launched the house’s latest perfume, Rock ‘n Rose Couture and a giant book (see below).

In addition to the celebration in Rome, a tribute book written by Vanity Fair writer Matt Tyrnauer will be published in July by Taschen.
Valentino movie at Sundance Movie Festival
Tyrnauer is also set to release a documentary about Valentino, three years in the making, at Sundance movie festival.
Timeline

• 1959 Having completed his fashion studies and an apprenticeship with Jean Desses and Guy Laroche, Valentino starts up his first studio in Rome
• 1960 Begins his collaboration with Giancarlo Giammetti, who manages the commercial development of the House of Valentino
• 1962 His first collection at the international fashion Gotha in the Palazzo Pitti, Florence, is a triumphant success
• 1965 Valentino is recognized as the top name in Italian Haute Couture
• 1967 He is awarded the Neiman Marcus Prize in Dallas (the equivalent of an Oscar in the world of Fashion)
• 1968 Valentino’s reputation is secured with the enormous success of his “Collezione Bianca”, the first clothes and accessories to have the magic “V” label Designs the wedding dress worn by Jacqueline Kennedy for her marriage to Aristotle Onassis.
• 1969 Begins his Boutique line of clothes and opens the first Valentino shop in Milan
• 1970 Launch of his first Ready-to-Wear collections Opening of Valentino boutiques in Rome and New York
• 1971 Opening of the first menswear shop in Via Condotti
• 1975 First fashion show of his Ready-to-Wear collection in Paris
• 1976 Opens a boutique in Tokyo
• 1978 Launch of the Valentino perfume at a gala evening in Paris, at the Theater des Champs Elysees
• 1982 Publication of the book “Valentino”, edited by Franco Maria Ricci 20 September, Valentino presents his Autumn/Winter collection at the Metropolitan Museum in New York
• 1984 Valentino celebrates his twenty-fifth year in the business and receives an official award from the Minister for Industry
• 1985 He is awarded the Grand’Ufficiale dell’Ordine al Merito by the President of Italy
• 1986 Receives the highest decoration possible in Italy, the Cavaliere di Gran Croce, from the President
• 1989 First show of the Haute Couture collection in Paris
• 1990 In February, Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti found L.I.F.E (initials in Italian for “Fighting, Informing, Building, Teaching”), an association working for the fight against Aids. The Accademia Valentino is also officially opened to the public with an exhibition of painters of the Roman School Exhibition of “The Art of Cartier” at the Accademia Valentino Publication of the book “Valentino: Trent’Anni de Magia”, by Leonardo arte.
• 1991 To celebrate his 30th year in the fashion business, an exhibition entitled “Valentino: Thirty Years of Magic” is organized in Valentino’s honour by the Mayor of Rome at the Capitole Museum, while the Accademia Valentino presents a retrospective of his designs. Creation of the perfume Vendetta for men and women.
• 1992 Exhibition at the Accademia Valentino entitled: “La seduzione da Boucher a Warhol” The “Valentino: Thirty Years of Magic”‘ exhibition is invited to go to New York to coincide with the fifth centenary celebrations of the discovery of America. Valentino is invited by the Chinese government to stage a show in Beijing* 1994 In January, Valentino presents his first ever costume designs at the Eisenhower Theatre in the John Fitzgerald Kennedy Center, Washington, for an opera entitled “The Dream of Valentino”, based on the life of the movie star Rudolf Valentino
• 1995 Valentino’s return to Italy is celebrated on 14 January in Florence with a fashion show at the Stazione Leopolda, over thirty years his first show at the Palazzo Pitti. The Mayor of Florence awards him the “Premio speciale dell’arte nella moda”
• 1996 Valentino is named Cavaliere del Lavoro
• 2004 launch of V perfume which will be followed by V for men
• 2006 Opens a boutique on Newbury Street in Boston
• 2006 President Chirac awards Valentino of the Legion d’Honneur
• 2007 Opens a boutique in Bangkok